pest control2

11 Strategies for Do-It-Yourself Pest Control

S6 Pesticides: These have moderate toxicity and accessible to people and require caution in use, storage and handling.5.3 Pesticide tags and toxin programs Pesticide tags It is often stressed that the most significant few minutes in pest management is the time spent in reading the tag.

Before 1996, some pesticides were non-biodegradable. A few of them, like D.D.T and Dieldrin can still be found in the environment today, although they are no longer available and have never been utilized for many years.

Unscheduled: These are very low in toxicity and are not likely to cause harm to individuals, provided they are used in compliance with label directions, most aerosol cans fall in this area.
5.5 Advantages and disadvantages of utilizing pesticidesThe utilization of pesticides to control pests may cause concern to a number of people. Individuals can become worried about the ramifications of the continuing use of pesticide on the environment and its effect on human health.

The label of a pesticide container has all of the info necessary for safe and beneficial use.
Pesticides and also the food chain Basically, plants are eaten by animals. This is called the food series. It is important when spraying pesticide in a building to be certain everyone is outside.

A few of the ways by which careless use of pesticides can cause individuals or other animals to be poisoned unintentionally include:not studying the labelputting pesticide in a food or drink container, such as a drink bottle. Children can eat or drink the pesticide by mistakeleaving pesticide baits in places where kids and pets can buy themnot using protective clothing or gear when spraying or mixing a pesticide contaminating found food and drink or cooking/eating utensils while carrying out a spraying procedure spraying in windy conditions so that the spray drifts away to other areasspraying regions which don’t have to be treatednot transferring different people and animals away from the spraying areaThese careless practices significantly increase the chance of someone being harmed by accidently absorbing (taking to the body) a few of the pesticide either orally, dermally or through respiration.

Learn More- https://www.familyhandyman.com/pest-control/11-strategies-for-do-it-yourself-pest-control/

Read the tag The label on a pesticide container has three chief purposes:To tell the user exactly what pest the product can be employed onTo tell the consumer how to manage, use and keep the pesticide safelyTo tell the consumer exactly how and when to apply the pesticide for the best effectBy law, pesticide labels must contain:the title of this productits toxin schedule in words which will alert the user of its level of toxicitythe name of the active ingredient (actual pesticide chemical in the container) and its own potency Note:Pesticide containers may usually have only a small proportion of actual pesticide chemical in them. The other substances which makes up the product may include:Compounds like water, which help dissolve the chemicalcarrying representatives that help distribute the compound, by way of example, talc in the event of pesticide powders and pollutants in the case of aerosol sprays.

The bugs which the merchandise will controlthe rate of application of the product (just how much of it to utilize )time and procedure of application directions for tackling the product safelyfirst aid procedures in the Event of an Crash any special instructions or warnings regarding its use or disposalthe net contents (weight when packed) of this containerHere is an example of a label on pesticides which are often used in communities:

Before buying or ordering a pesticide consistently answer the following questions:Is it the right compound for the pests to be medicated? Is it the compound which is least harmful to people? Which are the program precautions? What gear is required to use the chemical? What needs to be done in order to keep the focus and dispose of leftover solution safely? What needs to be done in order to decontaminate (wash ) gear and clothes afterwards? Poison programs Many of the substances used in people’s daily lives can be poisonous when used incorrectly, such as medications, pills, solvents, cleaning aids, glues and of course pesticides.

The schedules will take into consideration the chemical’s toxicity, any specific precautions or warnings and any other relevant factors that relate to how poisonous it might be.

Most of the pesticides used are chemicals that made in factories and have been developed in a laboratory by scientists. Some pesticides are quite hazardous, as they can be harmful to people and other living things.

S5 Pesticides: These have low toxicity and available to the public but require care in handling, use and storage.

Non-biodegradable and biodegradable pesticidesSome pesticides do not break down for a very long time. These kinds of pesticides are usually used when something must be protected from insect attack for a lengthy time period, for example, protecting houses from pest attack.

Top of Page

S7 Pesticides: These have elevated to very large toxicity. These pesticides are extremely poisonous and harmful to health and have a high potential for causing injury at low temperatures. They require specific labelling, handling and use and are not available to the public.

In addition to being hazardous to the user, pesticides can also cause great harm and sometimes death to an individual or other living things near, if the directions on the pesticide container aren’t followed carefully.

Top of Page
Top of Page
It’s very important to just use pesticides in accordance with the label instructions which are found on the pesticide container. When people using pesticides become careless they run the danger of poisoning themselves, other people and animals and plants.

When remaining pesticides get into the environment they could stay hazardous and active for many years. If implemented incorrectly or utilized in the incorrect place, these chemicals may spread to other soil regions and potentially into the water source.
Fig. 5.21: An illustration of a food chain.
What exactly are pesticides?A pesticide is a substance used to kill feral animals, insects, plants or fungi. There are hundreds and hundreds of different pesticides available now. Pesticides are used in homes, stores, offices, storerooms, sheds, farms, gardens, pastoral stations and a number of different places.
Together the food chain, there are many distinct ways pesticides can accidentally contaminate plants and creatures that could then be eaten by humans.

These are lists of substances that are categorized according to how poisonous (poisonous) they’re. Scheduled materials must all carry labels warning people that the substances:are toxic or may cause injuryhas to be used carefully by individuals has to be kept away from childrenA substance that is deemed poisonous or can lead to harm is put into one of those toxin schedules. There are eight distinct schedules.

Pesticides include three Unique forms:solids, which include in powder form (like flour), or in crystal or granular form (like sugar)liquids, which seem just like milky wateraerosols, which are sprayed out in a nice mist
Sometimes people do not understand that the chemical is in the floor and might dig up the dirt. They could then use it to get a garden or another purpose which brings other people, their pets and other animals into contact with it. As a result, many non-target creatures can be impacted by pesticides In this manner.

They can contaminate land, the atmosphere, food plants, water ways and seriously damage or kill native animals, pets and domestic animals.
The reduced the LD5O the more toxic (more poisonous) the compound.
Oral entryThis kind of entry is through the mouth at the food we eat or the fluids we drink. Also, if there’s a pesticide within our hands it can get into the body when the palms are licked, once the face is discharged near the mouth, or when a cigarette becomes infected and is put into the mouth.
Pesticides undergo lab tests to establish their level of toxicity. The chemical is tested on’test animals’, like mice, rats and rabbits, to see how much chemical is needed to kill a creature. These tests establish that the pesticide’s LD50 (lethal or murdering dose).
Animals that are intended to be murdered with pesticides are called target creatures . Animals (including people) that aren’t intended to be murdered when a pesticide is employed are known as non-target animals.

pest control2

 

Advantages of using pesticidesImplementing pesticides is not hard, given users are properly trainedModern pesticides are very effective. This means that nearly all of the target pests that come in contact with these pesticides have been killedResults are quick. This usually means the pests are killed within a very short time. Pesticides can be implemented quickly and there is not the high labour cost which may apply to other methods of control, such as eliminating weeds by hand. Disadvantages of using pesticidesIf pesticides are not used properly, they can affect human health or cause serious harm or death to the pesticide owner, other folks or family pets. Pesticides may also directly affect other non-target animals. By way of instance, a gardener spraying his backyard kill caterpillars will probably also kill harmless ladybird beetles and praying mantises. If pesticides are used incorrectly or applied wrongly, they may find their way to areas where they’re not wanted, for example, they might be discharged into rivers or into the soil. Pesticides can enter the food chain
Top of Page
Dermal entryPesticide spray that lands around the body can be absorbed through the eyes and skin. Pesticides are generally absorbed very quickly through the eyes, forehead and forearms.

Pesticides can enter the human body in three different ways, which are summarized below.

Fig. 5.20: Spraying for insects can affect non-target animals.

For instance, if a house has been sprayed for cockroaches it’s imperative not to damage any of these adults, children and pets such as dogs and cats who may reside there. Every one of these animals make up the non-target animals in the home.

When people use them they are aiming to kill a specific sort of pest. Because pesticides are poisonous substances, good care must be taken when using them, so that non-target creatures and plants are not killed.
To help people know how poisonous a substance is, you will find poison schedules.

It is important to always read the label on the pesticide container before using it.

In the illustration of the food chain offered by this film, pesticide has entered and murdered the target pest control, the grasshopper. On the other hand, the pesticide in the grasshopper has found its way into three useful non-target creatures via a food series.
Pesticides that remain in the soil or on the surface are also frequently called remaining chemicals.

Following an insect pest has been murdered by means of a pesticide the chemical may remain in its body and be active. If another creature eats the insect’s body that the pesticide will be transferred to its own body and it might also be harmed by the pesticide. The next creature may of course be eaten with a third animal and it also could be harmed by the pesticide and so forth.

In addition to protecting non-target animals and plants when pesticides have been used, it’s also important that each attempt is made to protect the rest of the surroundings. Some pesticides are very poisonous and will last in the environment for a very long time where they can poison the land, the atmosphere and the air.
There are good reasons (benefits) for using pesticides and there are grounds for not using these (disadvantages).
Scientists today are developing pesticides that are biodegradable. These compounds stay active long enough to do the task required and they then break down into simple and harmless chemicals including water and carbon dioxide. Researchers are also developing remaining compounds that are less toxic. For instance, pesticides used to shield homes from termites.
Respiratory entryPesticide sprays, vapours or powders could be breathed in through the mouth and nose.

This may happen when pesticides are utilized incorrectly or if treated materials which must never be touched by people come into contact with them. As an instance, moving termite treated dirt from beneath a building to use in a children’s playground.

Pesticides may be unscheduled or might be listed in Schedules 5, 6 or even 7.
Using pesticides properly to safeguard the environment, for example individuals When a pesticide spray is employed, it’s crucial to protect the environment by following the rules given below. Ensure that the proper pesticide for the job is selected and implemented in accordance with the label instructions Simply spray those areas which have to be treated Simply mix or use adequate pesticide solution that is essential to perform the job, that’s, do not overspray or use too much focus Only spray low wind conditions.

Try to have as little spray drift as possible and rather none in any way. Do not spray in which the end exceeds 15kmph. Make sure there is no pesticide left in the end of the treatment. Leftover pesticide must be either be used on the next job or buried. If the pesticide is buried, there’s always the danger that it might contaminate rivers, swamps and underground water supplies. Every effort should be made to reduce the chances of this happening. Make sure that all other people and animals are moved away in the freezing area and that they stay away until it’s safe to return.

Make sure that people who’ve had the inside of their homes treated are counseled to open doors and windows to get rid of any chemical smell which could be present when they return. If treating the interior of a home, ensure that the chemical has dried until people re-enter the Home
Below is a good example of how pesticides can enter the food chain.

5.2 Individuals and pesticide poisoningWhile pesticides are useful for the control of various pests, many of them are hazardous substances. They are hazardous because they can poison the soil, the water and the air.

Denver Real Estate Flipping 101

The fantastic news is that you can use your small pocket pal to track and place orders. Mostly all you have to do is check up on your robot to understand how your profits are currently doing.

The third is completely 3D tour that is programmed, with nodes. This is expensive but pays in long run. It takes the visitor . The visitor can look around, have accessibility of the surroundings, turn to instructions, peep through the location, zoom in and out. And draw a conclusion.

Choosing the perfect kind of business card options – With content and your design you should now concentrate on the options for your business card. Do you want a white one or a color business card ? Do you want to use business card paper that is normal, or will you spend more? Do you want to emboss some parts of your business card, or are flat cards sufficient? So you know what you want once printing starts Pick by one.

Make certain that your online beat machine provides you more than 1 bar to produce loops. Of making a loop, the entire point would be to have several instruments playing in a pattern and not just single instrument. Make Property in chandigarh that your beat creator has 16 – 32 bars.

Aeon Realty is a real estate consulting firm located in Gurgaon, which has gained its repute for doing just the same ! It has widened its grip on Chandigarh Real Estate‘s sale, purchase, renting and leasing . And not just that. It provides all the documentations until the property’s ownership.

Verify school information independently before buying. It is suggested for consumers to prior to purchasing a house, to seek the assistance of professionals that are real estate.

If youwould like a lifestyle that is more cultured and’re not a outdoor enthusiast, don’t worry. Maine is full of culture and will afford you all you could ever desire. There are numerous theater companies in Maine and you’ll find many community theatre groups putting on productions throughout the year. From Kittery to Calais, you’ll find many are also recruiting and these small community theatres are very active. So if you prefer something or Shakespeare more contemporary, you will find Maine is loaded with theatrics. You’ll also find the area to be alive with history and can visit the Maine State Museum in Augusta or the Maine Maritime Museum in Bath. Home to many forts from past centuries, you’ll find yourself exploring the state with excitement.

While going running or spending an hour or so at the gym when you are not at work is amazing, most people lack the time and desire to do so. People can learn that there are ways to exercise while in work which can allow you to work towards sustaining a healthy body.

Simple Bed Bug Elimination Plan

The purpose of this short easy to follow article is to share a simple, safe, and effective Bed Bug Treatment Plan that truly works for me and will work for you and anybody you care about that is infested with blood sucking Bed Bug colonies. More good news is that it is non-toxic and also effective against other unwanted smaller personal pests that are attracted to or passed onto our beds, like scabies, mites, and lice.

Since being banned, DDT is no longer available because it was potentially killing and harming more things than just bugs. In its absence, there is a real shortage of effective pesticides to kill Bed Bugs.

Using other toxic pesticides is especially discouraged for use on or around beds or baby’s nurseries. Use an eco friendly non toxic spray for active nests and anywhere you believe Bed Bugs are located.

This eco living friendly Bed Bug elimination strategy is simple but must be applied diligently to rid them. They hide well, they feed sporadically, Bed Bugs travel between apartments and on luggage, and they have become more resistant to standard dangerous pesticides.

1) Carefully inspect living areas on a routine basis, particularly in and around sleeping areas.

2) Spray eco living friendly non-toxic Bed Bug elimination enzymes daily for at least three weeks under and around each bed (to break the reproduction cycle).

3) Use eco living friendly Bed Bug Proof bedding encasements.

4) Be anti-Bed Bud ready when traveling.

Where should you look for Beg Bugs? The short answer is everywhere! The long answer is that they can be found in and around the mattress, box spring, bed frame, head board, foot board, dresser, night stands, clocks, computers, pictures on the wall, baseboard. Look for brown specs on the mattress. This can be dried blood or fecal matter. Also look for dried skins that occur during the Bed Bug molting process.

Of the eco living friendly non toxic sprays that kill bed bugs on contact the best are FDA (g.r.a.s.) which means all contents are “Generally recognized as safe”. You must be persistent.

If Bed Bugs are nesting within your bedding, it is a good decision to use eco living friendly mattress, box springs and pillow encasement covers that are laboratory tested for Bed Bugs. Mattresses and box springs can be semi-permanently encased within special eco living friendly Bed Bug proof mattress encasements. Once installed, inspect the encasements to ensure they are undamaged; if any holes or tears are found, seal these completely with permanent tape. Any bugs trapped within these sealed bags will eventually die. Continue to spray encasement surfaces. The easiest and best eco living friendly Bed Bug encasement products can now be found online. Many commercially available bedding covers are not Bed Bug proof.

Rid bed bugs by thoroughly cleaning the infested rooms and then the entire residence. Strip bedding and thoroughly spray a mist of non-toxic eco living friendly solution over every inch of all pillow, mattress, and frame surfaces. Allow to dry. Separate and flip mattress while spraying box springs, on top, sides and bottom.

Continue to spray non-toxic eco living friendly solution daily around base areas of your bed for at least three weeks. Also, spray immediate floor and wall areas daily. Bed Bug colonies can multiply in cracks, crevices, wall outlets (be careful of electric shock!), picture frames, old or used furniture, luggage, etc.

After three weeks, continue spraying bed surfaces when changing bedding. Always use Hot Water setting (preferably with bleach when possible) when laundering sheets and pillowcases. Running heavier blankets and comforters through a HOT dryer cycle without washing (between professional cleanings) is also a very good idea.

Scrub infested surfaces with a stiff brush moistened with an eco living friendly solution to dislodge and destroy eggs, and use a powerful vacuum to remove as many bed bugs as possible from cracks and crevices. Dismantling bed frames may expose additional bug hiding sites. Remove drawers from desks and dressers and turn furniture over, if possible, to inspect and clean all hiding spots.

To prevent bed bugs from crawling onto a bed, pull the bed frame away from the wall, tuck sheets and blankets so they won’t contact the floor, and place the frame legs into dishes or cups of mineral oil and add an eco living friendly solution.

Carefully inspect each piece of home furniture. Look for Bed Bugs, eggs and skins. Check the furniture for holes or tears in the fabric. If you find any, the Bed Bugs may be so deep into the furniture that you may never treat them effectively.

Vacuum living areas regularly with a bag type vacuum so you can safely dispose after sealing. Wash all your clothes and sheets in hot water and store them in heavy duty plastic trash bags. Persistence is the key.

Caulk and seal all holes where pipes and wires penetrate walls and floor, and fill cracks around baseboards and cove moldings to further reduce Bed Bug nesting environments. Because Bed Bugs and other pests may spread through cracks and holes in the walls, ceilings and floors, it is wise for apartment/condominium dwellers to seek cooperation with neighbors and management to inspect and encourage treatment of adjoining apartments on the same floor as well as those directly above and below.

Don’t panic. Although Bed Bugs can be annoying, they can be battled safely and successfully if you adopt a well-considered strategy using non-toxic eco living friendly enzymes.

Be vigilant.

Whenever you stay at a hotel or motel, peel the sheets back and look at the corners of the mattress. If possible, look behind the head board for signs of the bugs. Don’t put your luggage on the bed or leave it on the floor near the bed. Take a safe non toxic eco living friendly Bed Bug spray with you on all your travels. Spray your luggage before you re-pack your clothes.

Eco living friendly safe non toxic enzymes can also be used in bathwater to soak in it if you have a scabies or mite infestation in any areas of your body, it is completely safe but keep it out of your eyes. You can also add it to the washing machine to clean your clothes of many personal pests.

Each Bed Bug needs only one full blood meal to develop to the next developmental stage, and they can readily wait months between feeding opportunities. Under ideal conditions, adult Bed Bugs can survive for more than one year between meals. Thus, infested residences should be aggressively managed to eliminate Bed Bugs in an eco living friendly way.

This information will help you to more effectively identify and safely manage a confirmed or suspected Bed Bug infestation. This article is published to assist homeowners, property managers, and tenants with safe eco living friendly non-toxic methods relevant to the identification and effective elimination of Bed Bugs.



Source by Timothy Ridgway

What is the Best Flea Treatment For Your Pet?

Fleas are a very common problem for pet owners. They infest all manner of pets, but especially dogs and cats. Treating your pets for fleas as well as controlling them once they have been eradicated is essential for keeping both your pet and your family safe from these nasty parasites. However, there are a whole host of medications and medication methods to choose from. How do you know which is the right choice for your pet?

The first step is to familiarize yourself with all the different flea pet meds available, and learn how they work to control these pests. There are three main categories of products: collars, topicals and oral medicines.

Flea Collars

The original flea control product is the collar. Introduced in 1964, these collars were just about the only way to control fleas on pets for decades. They are still widely popular, as they are regarded as safe. However, their effectiveness has sometimes been in question. Flea collars work by slowly releasing a small amount of chemical that gradually spreads across your pet’s fur. As you might imagine, the area of fur closest to the collar gets the most protection, with the areas furthest away getting the least. This uneven application of the insecticide results in pets still getting bitten towards the rear and underside. Another problem with collars is that they can have side effects, usually resulting in a skin condition directly under the collar. One benefit of flea collars, however, is that they are very effective at stopping tick bites, as ticks usually attack around the head, neck and ears.

Flea Topicals

The major breakthrough in flea treatment came with the advent of topicals. These are liquid pet medications that are applied with a drop or two to your pet’s back. Topicals are extremely popular, as illustrated by well known brands such as Frontline, Advantage and Revolution. All are very effective at controlling fleas and ticks, while Revolution also claims to rid your dog or cat of various types of worms including heartworm. This claim has yet to be completely proven, but time will tell! Usually topicals used by themselves will not completely control a pest problem; they work best in conjunction with chemicals like methoprene, which are applied to your pet’s environment to stop adult parasites from developing from larvae. Topicals should first be prescribed by your local veterinarian, but afterwards it should be fine to restock over the counter.

Oral Flea Medicines

Oral flea medications come in pill or liquid form and work from the inside out. They allow the pesticide to come out through your pet’s skin and thereby kill fleas and ticks. These medicines have rather limited effect when compared with topicals, and one dosage typically lasts only a few days. There is also added risk of side effects, or risk that the treatment is too weak by the time it gets to the skin to be much of a deterrent. Popular oral flea treatments include Program, Capstar and Hartz.

So What Is The Answer?

It seems that for most pet owners, topicals are the way to go to rid dogs and cats of fleas, ticks and even worms. One concern for those with young families is the possible effect of topicals on infants and toddlers if they regularly come into contact with the pesticide by cuddling and petting the animal. However, if there are no small children around, then topicals seem like the best bet when coupled with an environment pest control agent such as methoprene. Flea collars are still a viable alternative and are more easily purchased, as well as having the added benefit of better tick protection. In any case, make sure to consult your local veterinarian initially, who should be able to provide you with up-to-date information on the latest products, options and recommendations that suit your particular location.



Source by Terrence Winstanley

7 Places Bed Bugs Love to Hide Out

Bedbugs are no fun, as anyone who has experienced them will tell you. Repeatedly! There are worse bugs in this world to encounter – bedbugs aren’t fatal, after all. Whether there is a more unsettling bug is left up to debate. After all, bedbugs make their home in your mattress and box spring, the place where you spend about 1/3 of your life sleeping.

The first sign that you may have a bedbug infestation is a red bite, which resembles the more familiar mosquito bite. They occur in a pattern of 3 or 4 bites, which experts call the “breakfast, lunch, and dinner” pattern.

If you detect bedbug bites on your person, it’s time to find all the places in your room where the bedbugs are hiding. Once you know where they’re hiding, you can start the process of “smoking them out” and ridding yourself of this troublesome pest.

1. Check the mattress and box spring of your bed.

This is the easiest place to find the critters. They don’t like to stray too far from their food source – you – so they will take up residence in all the crevices of the mattress and box spring. Check all the seams, tufts, and crevices of the mattress carefully to identify where you need to clean.

2. Check your bed frame and headboard.

You’re most likely going to find bedbugs in your mattress, and surprisingly, some bugs like to make their home in the frame of your bed as well. If your frame and headboard has any cracks or crevices, you need to take a close look for bedbugs.

3. Check your nightstands and dressers.

Just as they will infest your headboard and bed frame, bedbugs will take up residence in your dressers and nightstands. They are the closest furniture to your sleeping body, so they make a great hideout while they’re waiting for their next meal.

4. Look under the edge of any wall-to-wall carpeting and in the bedroom closet. This is a tricky little spot for the critters to hide, and this can be a hassle to check. Still, for a complete eradication, check this area.

5. Check behind wall-mounts, switch plates and outlets, and in and behind picture frames. Don’t forget to check in and behind anything mounted on your wall.

6. Check inside clocks, phones, smoke detectors, and televisions. Just because it is electronic doesn’t mean that bedbugs wouldn’t love to live there.

7. Check beneath any loose or cracked wallpaper. This is yet another place you might think bedbugs would avoid, but you would be wrong! These guys will live anywhere they can get away with.

If you’re not confident that you’ve found every place that a bedbug is hiding in your home, it might be time to call in the professionals. Bedbug infestations are growing more common, and pest control experts can help you banish the bedbugs.



Source by Kristin Matthews

Mosquito Killing: Bug Zappers Verses a Bug Fan

If you don’t want to use poison sprays, your main options to kill mosquitoes around your home are going to be either some kind of Bug Zapper, or some kind of Bug Fan. For those of you that are unfamiliar with Bug Fans, they are just fans of various sizes, with a net of some kind on the output end. The idea is that any flying insect small enough to go through the input grill of a fan, will be blown into the net where they will dry out and die. Some Bug Fans are special purpose, and are usually small. The very expensive larger types will have carbon dioxide and scent emitters, to try to attract mosquitoes to the input end. How these added elements help, if the fan is blowing air away from the input end of the fan, is a bit of a mystery.

Bug Zappers usually have a black light bulb surrounded by an electrified grid. Bugs trying to get close to the light bulb will be electrocuted-Zapped- by this grid. I have used these products for over 30 years, and thought they were doing an acceptable job. I had read reports of several different studies which concluded that the bugs zapped were mostly not the biting female mosquito. One study said that less than 1% of the insects killed were female mosquitoes. How they were able to distinguish between the various insects after zapping is a bit of a mystery too, but these are scientists- so anything is possible.

My own experience was that the supposedly clog proof grid would get clogged with dead bugs that looked like mosquitoes. I am not trained to be able to tell a dead female from a dead male mosquito. I did notice that this accumulation of dead looking mosquitoes would grow in size around the perimeter of the clog, until it would cover the entire grid. This only happened when the mosquitoes were heavy, and when I would clean the grid I would leave a small clog, as these seemed to be somewhat of an attractant. I assumed some carbon dioxide or smell was being released by the dead bug clog, which improved the efficiency of the Zapper. However, whatever they were killing, they didn’t kill anything during the day time.

So while all these studies indicated that the Zappers were not killing the biting mosquitoes, seeing what appeared to be mosquitoes on the grid made me ignore their results. Killing bugs at night but not during the day, was better than not killing at all. What did bother me was even though I was killing something that looked like mosquitoes, they were still everywhere. I couldn’t sit on my porch with two Zappers going out in my yard. The population would eventually subside, something which of course happens naturally even without killing any.

I then tried a 12″ diameter Bug Fan which I put on my porch. Using it overnight, I saw many mosquitoes caught in the net the next morning that were still alive and easily identified as females. I added another Bug Fan, and they both caught the same number as using just one. So another Bug Fan was set up. Within a week I saw a serious reduction of mosquitoes flying around my porch and myself. While there were still a few, I had caught thousands that were not. There were also gnats in the net, which may have also been killed by my Zappers, but would have been too small to see on the grid.

Setting up a larger Bug Fan, a 20″ pedestal fan near my door, I was able to brush off any that were trying to attack me as I entered the house. Also, sitting behind the larger fan took care of most of the ones that would fly around me trying to find a place to land and bite. The moving air also had a cooling effect, which is why people buy fans in the first place. For me, the Bug Fans were an improvement that didn’t require any large investment, and they took care of the bugs where I sit outside, even during the day time. My zappers killed something in my yard, but nothing on my porch, and nothing during the day. Today I have a few Bug Fans, no more Zappers, and the mosquito population this year compared to last is as different as “night and day”.



Source by Harry Windle

Getting Rid of Stray Cats: 5 Foolproof Tips

Stray and Feral Cats

Stray and feral cats are a huge problem in the United States. Strays are simply cats that have wandered off, but feral cats may have bred for a generation of more in the wild and know how to survive without the care of humans. The problem is that they may carry diseases, fight with house cats and spread those diseases. Left uncontrolled they breed more and more cats. They can however perform a useful roll in local rodent and pest control.

Don’t walk up and try to pet it. Strays are not always friendly or immunized so there the possibility that they man carry rabies. If you do get bitten, either the cat gets trapped and tested for rabies or you will need a full series of rabies shots, which are not pleasant. A bite or scratch from a feral cat should have you on your way to the doctor immediately.

If the cat happens to be friendly, do it favor and take it to the vet. Get it immunized, spayed or neutered and try to find it a good home if you don’t want to keep it yourself. You should also read up on how to deal with cats that have behavioral problems.

Getting Rid of Stray Cats

Most of the products for sale that claim to keep stray and feral cats away don’t work at all. It couldn’t hurt to try them if you have the money to spend, but there are many tried and true methods below.

  1. Don’t feed the kitties and remove any food sources that you can find. Leaving food out can also attract other animals such as skunks.
  2. Block entryways to places feral cats like to live. The get under homes, decks and into shed. Make sure you do not have a haven for feral cats next to your home.
  3. Call you local animal control center and see if they will come out and catch them or let you borrow or rent a trap to catch the cats.
  4. Buy your own trap and catch the cat yourself. Take it in to the closest animal control. Releasing elsewhere is just condemning it to a worse life. Take care though – this isn’t a tamed cat, but a snarling scratching ball of menace.
  5. Use pepper spray liberally in the areas the cats frequent. It will bother their sensitive noses and the cats may stay away.

If you’ve got a heart of gold, trap the cat, take it the vet and have it immunized then spayed or neutered. Release back on to your property and provide it with food. Perhaps you could use a great mouser? Regardless, the important thing is that the stray doesn’t continue to breed.



Source by Mark Gebbia

Silverfish Don’t Hurt Your Health, They’re Just Unsightly and Destructive to Your Possessions

Silverfish aren’t really a threat to your health, so who cares if you have them in your home?

Let me give you a few reasons you don’t want these insects in your world.

  • The silverfish eats materials that contain high levels of starch. This includes dextrin, which you find in glue, paper, pictures, your hair, sugar, and cereals.
  • Silverfish are unsightly creatures.
  • Silverfish are fast, and hard to catch.
  • Sometimes you’ll find them in your bed.
  • They’re tough to control, and get rid of.
  • The female lays one-to-four eggs every day.
  • They live an average of two years, and sometimes as long as 3-years.
  • They’re a native of the northern continent, and found around the world.
  • They live in most any building, occupied or not, and favor kitchens and bathrooms where the environment is warm and damp.

Silverfish hide during the day, mostly inside walls or behind furniture and appliances where it’s dark. They are most active at night.

Since they eat dextrin they’ll show up in your cereal sometimes, but they don’t really threaten your health so much as your possessions. A large population can destroy your library by eating the glue that binds the books together, and when the glue is gone they’ll start on the paper itself.

These bugs normally don’t bother you, unless they move into your bedroom and crawl across you as you lie in bed at night, but they’re ugly bugs. Guests might question your housekeeping skills when they see these creatures scampering around your walls.

As the female lays so many eggs each month, the population grows fast if left untreated. The silverfish is hard to control because of the rapid growth in population, the speed of the bugs, and the fact that pesticides only kill the adults. When the nest is inside walls treating the hatching young is an even more difficult task due to the difficulty of getting the chemicals into the proper locations.

Look for pheromone traps designed to capture silverfish. These are toxic so make sure you place them out of reach to children and pets. These traps still won’t affect eggs, but by catching the live bugs you shrink the number of females that lay those eggs.

Since silverfish prefer (and require) moist areas for survival, make sure you eliminate any leaks and other sources of dampness.

The best treatment I know of is dusting the nesting area with chemical powders.

Find the area where the most silverfish activity appears. Usually this is near a wall, and the nest is most likely inside that wall. You want to spray the powder inside the wall such that it creates a cloud of dust in the wall cavity. Just dumping a pile of powder on the floor only gets the bugs that actually crawl through the pile, getting the powder on their legs as they walk through. Spreading a cloud inside the wall puts the chemical in the air, and they inhale it as they breathe.

Start with a spray every couple of days to kill any eggs a week or more old. Eggs take 2 – 3 weeks to hatch, so some of the eggs there are up to three weeks old. Widen your spray schedule out to once a week two times, then spray one month later. Your problem should disappear. If not, start your dusting process again, and continue the procedure until you see no more silverfish.

Persistence is key for controlling these bugs, as it is in many of our successes in life.



Source by Joseph Jackson

Are Scorpions Infesting Your Home?

Finding or seeing a scorpion unexpectedly can be a scary occurrence. Your best pest prevention tactic against this nasty critter is to learn about where scorpions live, what they look like, and what you can do to keep them away from your home.

Do I have to worry about scorpions where I live?

Possibly. Scorpions are known to prefer warmer climates (average temperature range of 68- 99 degrees Fahrenheit) though they are able to survive in most American areas. They have not migrated outside of the southern United States, but they can easily be transported in plants, flowers, shrubs or trees grown in the South and shipped elsewhere. They can live contentedly in any location that can provide moisture, food (typically other insects) and shade.

What do scorpions look like?

Scorpions range in length from just one inch up to seven. They have four sets of two legs and a two-part body: the head and the abdomen, which includes their segmented tail. The tail works like a universal joint and is commonly curled around above the abdomen in a “C” position, though it can move in any direction. Scorpions are also recognized by the set of proportionally large pinchers at the front of their heads.

When are scorpions active?

Most types of scorpions are nocturnal, which means they hunt for food and water at night. During the day, they will find a cool, dry, sheltered location to rest until nighttime.

What should I do if I see a scorpion?

Scorpions will try to sting you if they feel threatened. Therefore, if you see a scorpion, do not try to touch or handle it. If you believe you might have scorpions in your house, take precautions and do your best to avoid them until you can bring in a pest control service. This means checking your shoes, gloves and clothes before you put them on. Shake out any folded clothes, linens, or anything else before heavy handling. At nighttime, always wear hard-soled slippers. A handheld black light can help you see any present scorpions in advance of your approach, as the scorpion’s exoskeleton contains proteins that will cause it to glow brightly under a black light.

What should I do if a scorpion stings me?

Most scorpion stings happen when a human unknowingly disturbs one, either while it’s resting or out hunting for insects to eat. A scorpion sting is hard to mistake. You would feel the pain of a sting almost instantly. Commonly, a large welt will appear. Though it can take several hours for the scorpion’s venom to affect your body, you should seek medical treatment at an emergency room or doctor’s office immediately, especially if a child is stung.

How do I know if I have a scorpion infestation?

If you live in a warm, dry climate and have seen more than one scorpion a month or think you might be seeing both juvenile and adult scorpions, you may have an active infestation near or inside your home. It is possible that the scorpions are nesting outside but coming inside the house in search of water or shelter.

To control the scorpions, you can try home remedies like glue traps, bug zappers or pest control sprays designed specifically for scorpions. You will also want to make sure to check your home for small cracks or openings (as small as 1/16 of an inch). Treat and seal any openings you find. Pest control treatments designed for outdoor use should be utilized to prevent the pests from living around your home. There are many types of pest control and pest prevention products available, including green pest control products, for household use. You want to make sure you get the right product for your application site in order to get the best results and protection.

However, since scorpion stings can be painful and potentially dangerous, calling in a professional pest control service is recommended. A pest control service will know the specific types of pest control that should be used for your individual situation. They will have the equipment, safety gear and pest control products needed to keep you and your household safe. Further, they should be able to help you with an appropriate pest control prevention program to help prevent scorpions from living or nesting around your house.

~Ben Anton, 2010



Source by Ben Anton

Powder Post Beetle Control For Log Cabins

You have a log cabin, you like the rustic look, clean and fresh. You notice pin holes appearing on the wood surface and a powdery sawdust trickling down the rough surface of the wood on to your Flying Canvasback Wall Mount. You have powder Post beetle and they are second to termites. They damage the wood from the inside out. They infested the tree when it was still standing or in the lumber yard.

Powder post Beetle have four stages of growth, egg, larva, pupa and adult. The adult beetle is 1/12 to 1/5 inch long and seldom seen. It is the larva that does the damage, they are after the starch content of the wood. The less starch in the wood, the more tunneling the larva does. After many months of tunneling and feeding on the starch the larva will migrate and pupate just below the surface of the wood. After a matter of days or weeks depending on temperature the adult will emerge from its pupa case and chew a tiny exit hole, leaving more powdery sawdust on your Flying Wood Duck Wall Mount. The male and female will mate, the male dies and the female penetrates the pores of the wood with its ovapositor, deposits eggs, larva emerge from the eggs and the process starts all over again.

Normally you would spray the surfaces of the infested area with a residual insecticide to the point of run-off and only in areas that were not living spaces. In homes that have wall coverings i.e. sheetrock, you will not get these infestations unless its in the beams of the cellar or crawl area that are not covered or finished. Years back we would use insecticides such as Chlordane, Lindane and Dursban just to name a few but they have long been banned. In order to control or eliminate the powder post beetle you have to treat all the surfaces of the infested area.

Using insecticide in the living spaces (bedrooms, kitchen, living room) of log cabins and other rustic, country dwellings that have natural wood finishes is not advisable.You want to keep that natural rustic, country home look. This can be done by applying a clear sealer i. e. polyurethane gloss, semi-gloss or satin finish. The satin finish does not shine as much as the gloss or semi-gloss and may give a more natural look. Its just like painting a room and its probably the closest your going to get to keeping that natural look. Once the finish is applied it will continue to emerge for many months until they are all out. The female cannot penetrate the sealed pores of the wood with its ovapositor thus interrupting the next generation of beetles.

You can use insecticide on the outside if you want to. If it already has a finish, the application is not necessary. One of the newer powder post beetle insecticides is called Tim-Bor. This can be purchased at your local “Do-It-Yourself Pest Control” store, if you are lucky enough to have one. If not, this is a chance to get rid of some insecticide concentrate that has been sitting on the shelf. If you have a residual concentrate i.e. Chlordane, Lindane, Dursban or some other insecticide labeled for powder post beetle, use it. Make sure you read the entire label and follow all safety and hazard warnings.

To avoid splash back, spray the raw wood at low pressure to the point of run-off with diluted insecticide. In high areas a ladder may be useful. Do not spray on windy days to avoid drift. When spraying overhead wear rubber gloves, a hat, glasses and a respirator to avoid breathing in air bound particles. The average 24 ft. x 40 ft. home will take about 3 gallons of diluted material. If you have some diluted insecticide left over, keep spraying until it is all gone. Keep children and domestic pets out of the area during the application and until dry (4 to 5 hours depending on weather conditions).



Source by Randolph Heroux